Road book Ukraine 1. From Zakony to Chop, the border, a whole poem
(B2 in Ukraine) Crossing the border between the European Union and Ukraine is an epic adventure. Big words on the facilitation of traffic remain a decoy, on both sides. In particular for freight, for which the formalities are endless.
This is great art. An art combining both European bureaucracy and the bureaucracy of the Soviet era. The whole morning of the habit of bakchich so rooted in daily life, that it becomes almost picturesque. No joint customs post, or even attached. This means that the procedures are lengthened and duplicated.
A long queue upstream of Zahony
Just before the Hungarian border post, held a few hundred meters ahead, a long line of vehicles stretches over more than a kilometer. They transport freight. And have been there for hours. " It's long breathes one of the drivers. Cars that generally have temporary plates (import vehicles) drop by drop. Per hour, only about ten cars are allowed to enter the transit area. Before the formalities process begins.
Serial formalities, Hungarian side
When the vehicle finally arrives in the border area, the obstacles follow one another: papers, stamp, control, waiting, papers, stamp, waiting. Two o'clock. At the very least. Finally passed, the Hungarian control. Time to cross the Tisza, the river that serves as a demarcation between Ukraine and Hungary, and the border post. But all is not over.
Rebelotte, Ukrainian side
On the other side of the bridge are the Ukrainians. So the European formalities seem almost a misery. Passport once. Papers twice. Re-Passport. Checking of papers. Payment. Photocopy. Then recheck documents and passports. Quick car search. Again, two hours.
A little merry-go-round
For passenger vehicles, it is faster. But with a little time, we quickly see a small merry-go-round, unsuspected at first sight. The most extraordinary thing is the number of Ukrainian customs officers. Soldiers are even there, armed. As if the Hungarian or Slovak army would arise at some point to invade them. Young conscripts who seem happy not to be at the front in the east of the country.
The privileged
The regulars apparently pass faster. They take great care to shake hands with each other. The customs officers control as in a country of knowledge. They even open the car door, only to close it immediately. The control is obviously pure form. Tickets change hands. The regular file towards the casemate of the customs officers, with, under the coat, a small package. A bottle, or a few slabs of chocolate, and the like, which he discreetly slips into the office. Casually, like throwing away old paper. The practice is the work of the young minibus driver, like the flashy businessman, or the elegant woman, with an innocuous air, to whom one would give the good god without confession.
Customs acceptance
The customs officer on duty goes elsewhere to other occupations further away. And nonchalantly returns when the regular has left his odds and ends. The latter then goes back in the car, and starts after a nod. Everyone salutes. Everybody is happy. In the space of half an hour, three regulars thus passed through the casemate and left at lightning speed. Nothing bad in itself. The ordinary routine, the usual tip left on the terrace of a café.
Last formality before the road
Last check on leaving the border area: the military must be given the "exit voucher" issued at customs. We can leave. Total time: more than 6 hours. And again, was it at the front of the line. For some, it will take more than 12 or even 24 hours to arrive in Ukraine.
(Nicolas Gros-Verheyde, in Zahony)